If you're just careful with your soldering, copy the connections very carefully with what was already there and then gently tug on your solder connections to make sure they're solid you should be fine. In the past several months I've rewired and installed new electronics/pickups in two of my guitars.
Im assuming you will be soldering this.. So if you are soldering, just use the tip of the iron to burn off the coating, and the wire will be in perfect condition..
I use a Weller 100/140 watt solder gun for guitar soldering work. I can almost instantly bring the soldering tip up to the proper temperature (at 140 watt trigger setting) then back off to 100 watt setting and flow solder for wire tinning or for solder connections. Cold solder joints don't happen with this setup.
EMG's passive pickups are pretty much like every other manufacturer's pickups. To convert EMG's modular solderless system for standard soldered connection, just snip off the connector. EMG should provide a way to decode the pickup wire colors. Don't bother "upgrading" pots if the current ones work smoothly and don't crackle. There is no tone magic in "upgraded" pots of the same value. Typical ...
There was a discussion on this a long time back, a few years probably, but has anyone tried to replace pickups by using connectors instead of resoldering wires onto the pots directly? For instance, if you are happy with the pots and caps, but want to try new pickups, you can just "unconnect" the ...
Soldering wires to speaker terminals is one of the easiest soldering jobs to do, but if you don't want to solder then get some crimp-on spade connectors and use them to connect the speaker.
Which solder is optimal for guitar wiring? I seem to have a spool of this lead-free rosin-core solder solder. It contains 97.3% tin, 0.7% copper, 2.0% rosin flux core. Would this work well for guitar wiring? In the past I've used Radioshack 60/40 rosin-core solder, but I've run out. Should I just...
I have a Rat and a Small Clone that both do this. Both have the same kind of metal button to turn them on and off, and when I do, they pop loudly. What's the cause of this, and how would I go about fixing it?
Soldering a 500K resistor on will reduce this max resistance to 250K, but will keep the same taper as before, only shifted round a little. I understand the math, (1 / (1/R1 + 1/R2 + . . . 1/Rn)) That's why I'm saying it will change the taper of the pot. Without some calculus, I don't know what it would be. It's not optimal. A new pot is optimal.
If you don't have a solder gun you could just use a small wire nut or even twist them together well and cover all with electrical tape. Knowing how to solder, I would take some very small wire, similar to what is there, and solder the two wires together followed by shrink tape or electrical tape. Should be all you need. Notice: I am not a professional!
